Author name: Kloc Curtis

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Electrical System Overview — What We Inspect and Why It Matters If there’s one part of the inspection where precision really matters, it’s the electrical system. Not because it’s complicated—but because it’s potentially dangerous. I inspect panels, test outlets, and identify safety risks. But I don’t remove wires or confirm every connection deep inside the walls. And for good reason. When I Open the Panel (And When I Don’t) If the main service panel is safely accessible—dry, unlocked, and not restricted by the builder—I’ll open the dead front cover and document what’s inside. I look for breaker labeling, wire gauge, bonding, grounding, overheating signs, improper double-taps, missing knockouts, and more. But if it’s raining, there’s standing water, or the panel is locked or tagged “Do Not Open,” I leave it closed and note it in your report. Safety first—every time. GFCI vs. AFCI: Know the Difference I test all accessible outlets—especially kitchen, bathroom, garage, and exterior receptacles—with a plug-in tester. I verify GFCIs (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) and AFCIs (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters) wherever required or installed. GFCI = detects water-related shock risks. Think bathrooms, kitchens, laundry, outside. AFCI = detects dangerous arcing. Required in most living areas of newer homes. If a breaker or outlet fails to trip—or if a GFCI outlet is missing in a required location—I’ll call it out. Sometimes it’s a missing upgrade. Sometimes it’s a safety hazard. Either way, it matters. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: visible wiring types, safety devices, improper breakers, overheated connections, open grounds, and code-recommended safety upgrades. ❌ I’m not looking to: remove wiring, test every conductor, open sealed junction boxes, or verify permit history. Aluminum Wiring? Yes, I Look for It Single-strand aluminum wiring (popular in the late 1960s and 70s) is a known fire risk. I’m trained to spot it—typically labeled “AL” on wire sheathing inside panels. Single-strand aluminum expands and contracts more than copper, which can loosen connections and cause overheating. Multi-strand aluminum (like for your oven or AC unit) is still common today and generally safe when installed properly. But if I see single-strand AL in a place it shouldn’t be—or signs of overheating or incompatible breakers—I’ll recommend evaluation by a licensed electrician. Three-Prong Outlets Without Grounds Just because it has three holes doesn’t mean it’s grounded. I test for open grounds at every accessible outlet. If a three-prong outlet isn’t grounded—or worse, falsely wired to show it is—I document it. This is especially common in older homes that were “updated” without proper rewiring. It’s not just about function—it’s about shock risk. FAQs: What to Expect From the Electrical Inspection Do you open the electrical panel? Yes—if safe and accessible. I don’t open panels in wet conditions, when blocked, or when tagged by builders. Your report will note any limitations. What’s the difference between GFCI and AFCI? GFCI protects against electric shock near water. AFCI protects against fires from arcing wires. Both are tested when accessible and reported if missing or failed. Is all aluminum wiring dangerous? No. Multi-strand aluminum (for large appliances) is fine when installed correctly. Single-strand aluminum in branch circuits can be a fire hazard—and should be evaluated by an electrician. Do you test every outlet? Every accessible one, yes. I test for polarity, grounding, trip function, and visible safety risks. Obstructed or sealed outlets are noted as not tested. → Next up: Post 16: Electrical Red Flags — Panels and Wiring That Worry Inspectors ← Previously: Post 14: Do You Have Good Bones? What a Structural Inspection Reveals Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Do You Have Good Bones? What a Structural Inspection Reveals Everyone wants to know: does this house have good bones? And what they really mean is, “Will it fall apart on me?” That’s fair. But let’s be honest: I’m not an engineer running stress tests on your roof load. I’m a trained home inspector looking for symptoms—the visible stuff that tells me what might be going wrong underneath. My Job Is to Spot the Signs—Not Solve the Math I look at how the house is behaving. Are floors sloping? Are door frames out of square? Are there cracks at window corners or stair-step patterns in brick? Those are red flags that suggest movement or shifting. But without removing finishes, testing soil, or analyzing load paths, I can’t tell you exactly *why* it’s happening—or how to fix it. What I can do is point out what’s visible, explain what it might mean, and help you decide if a licensed structural engineer should take a deeper look. Their job is different from mine—and yes, it usually starts at $750 just to show up. That’s why I don’t push every buyer to get one. Wait and see what I find first. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: sloping floors, out-of-plumb walls, cracks in walls and foundations, door alignment issues, exposed truss damage, and signs of overloading. ❌ I’m not looking to: verify framing code, pull permits, engineer a fix, or determine root structural loads. That’s a job for the PE with a calculator and a tape measure. When “Good Bones” Doesn’t Mean Perfect Many older homes settle unevenly over time—but are still structurally sound. If I don’t see signs of recent movement, water intrusion, or active shifting, I’ll say that. Minor sloping in a 1950s ranch may be normal. But fresh cracks or doors that won’t latch are things I call out. In attics and basements, I look at the framing itself. Are trusses intact? Any cracks, bowing, or poor repairs? Have braces been cut or altered? Are beams undersized or sagging? All of this goes in your report—with photos, notes, and recommendations. FAQs: What to Expect From a Structural Inspection During a Home Inspection Do you evaluate framing? Yes—where visible. I look at attic and crawlspace framing, visible bracing, roof trusses, and signs of modification or failure. But I don’t open walls or confirm design compliance. Should I get a structural engineer? Maybe. If I see major red flags—active movement, major sagging, or advanced foundation distress—I’ll recommend it. But you don’t need one unless something I find points in that direction. Do you report minor sloping or cracking? Yes. Any signs of movement, even if minor, are included in the report with photos and notes. These help you monitor over time—or bring in pros if needed. Can you tell me if the house is safe? I can tell you what I see today—and whether there are concerns. I can’t predict future failure or unseen issues. Think of this as a first diagnosis, not the final treatment plan. → Next up: Post 15: Electrical System Overview — What We Inspect and Why It Matters ← Previously: Post 13: Foundation, Crawlspace & Basement — Uncovering Structural Clues Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Foundation, Crawlspace & Basement — Uncovering Structural Clues The reason I spend time staring at concrete piers and dirty crawlspace walls is because the structural clues down here matter more than anything happening upstairs. You might have new flooring and fresh paint—but if the home is settling, shifting, or collecting water underneath, that’s the stuff that really counts. My Mindset in a Crawlspace or Basement I’m not just glancing for water. I’m looking at the support systems. Are piers solid, straight, and continuous? Are they resting on proper footings or makeshift blocks? Is there evidence of movement, like gaps between beams and supports, or diagonal cracking in stem walls? Foundation systems vary—slab-on-grade, post and pier, basement, stem wall, pilings—but the approach is the same. I’m looking for settlement, shifting, and moisture. I’m also checking whether repairs have been made—and how well. Foam shims and cardboard spacers aren’t load-bearing materials (no matter how clever the last guy thought he was). Moisture Is the Common Denominator Water doesn’t belong inside a crawlspace or basement. I check for efflorescence (that white powdery residue from water seepage), dark staining, standing water, and mold-like substances. These may not just mean dampness—they may point to poor drainage or a failing sump pump system. Sump Pumps: What I Can and Can’t Test If the sump pump is exposed and I can reach it safely, I’ll inspect its condition. I look for power supply, float switch condition, visible rust or deterioration, and backup battery systems. If there’s standing water or a test button, I may activate it. But I don’t manually fill sump pits, override systems, or perform destructive testing. If it’s a sealed system or inaccessible due to safety or design, I’ll document what I can see—and note that further evaluation may be needed. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: uneven floors, cracked foundation walls, displaced piers, sagging framing, long-term moisture, and signs of movement. ❌ I’m not looking to: conduct soil tests, certify foundation engineering, test underground drainage, or predict how the home will settle over the next decade. When I Flag a Structural Concern If I see horizontal foundation cracks, wall bowing, improper support spacing, or sloped floors beyond normal tolerance, I’ll let you know. These signs don’t always mean disaster—but they do mean a structural contractor should take a deeper look. Just like a knee specialist doesn’t diagnose from an x-ray alone, you need boots-on-the-ground expertise for repairs and solutions. FAQs: Understanding Foundation and Basement Inspections Do you test the sump pump? Only if safely accessible and testable without altering the system. I’ll report visible condition and note if testing was limited or not possible. If it’s sealed, damaged, or inaccessible, I’ll recommend evaluation by a plumber or drainage contractor. Will you tell me if the foundation is bad? I’ll report cracks, movement, sagging, or signs of distress. But a full engineering opinion is beyond the scope of a home inspection. My goal is to tell you what’s visible, and whether it warrants a second look. Do you enter crawlspaces even if they’re tight? Yes—if safe and accessible. I’ll crawl, duck, and inch through to get eyes on the piers and framing. If entry is blocked or dangerous, I’ll document that in your report. What foundation types do you inspect? I inspect slab, post and pier, stem wall, and basement foundations. Each has different issues—but the same red flags: water, settlement, and failing support systems. → Next up: Post 14: Do You Have Good Bones? What a Structural Inspection Reveals ← Previously: Post 12: Exterior Systems — Drainage, Siding, and What Can Let Water In Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Exterior Systems — Drainage, Siding, and What Can Let Water In The reason I spend extra time walking the outside of the home isn’t to admire the curb appeal. It’s to figure out how water is—or isn’t—getting away from the structure. Most buyers see fresh paint and new mulch. I see moisture traps, compromised siding, and slopes that tilt the wrong way. Where I Walk, I’m Looking for Water I start with drainage. Is the ground sloped away from the house? Are gutters extended far enough from the foundation? Is there standing water or evidence of erosion? Water is the number one enemy of every home—outside and in. So that’s my starting point. From there, I evaluate siding: is it soft, delaminating, cracking, or pulling away? Are there gaps around hose bibs, cable entries, or vents? Does vegetation touch or grow too close to the walls? That’s not just messy—it’s a moisture invitation. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: poor grading, siding damage, missing or failed caulking, vegetation contact, deteriorated windows or trim, and compromised penetrations. ❌ I’m not looking for: cosmetic paint quality, landscaping trends, or fence style preferences. This isn’t an HGTV critique—it’s a water intrusion check. I also look at hardscapes—like driveways, walkways, patios, and retaining walls. Are they cracking, sloping back toward the house, or breaking apart due to tree roots or age? That matters. A cracked driveway may not seem urgent, but if it’s redirecting water toward your crawlspace, you’ll care a lot more in February. Doors, Windows, and Trim: Where Water Slips In Exterior doors and windows are constant battlegrounds. I’m looking at weatherstripping, trim rot, soft thresholds, failed caulk lines, and gaps. Once again—it’s all about water. And sometimes, bugs. These small details are where big repairs start. Same goes for fences and gates. If they’re falling apart, leaning, or unsecured, it might not affect the house’s structure—but it says something about maintenance overall. The exterior tells a story. You just have to look past the fresh mulch and door wreath. FAQs: What to Expect From the Exterior Inspection Do you evaluate landscaping or yard layout? Only as it relates to drainage, slope, and potential structural impact. I don’t assess plant types, aesthetics, or HOA compliance—but I do care if that nice flowerbed is holding water against your foundation. Will you note cosmetic paint flaws or siding color issues? No. I’m looking for damage, not design. Paint quality only matters to me if it’s failing in a way that exposes the structure to risk—like peeling on wood siding. Do you inspect fences and gates? Yes—but only for general condition, safety, and damage. I don’t inspect for zoning, boundary lines, or lock mechanisms. If a gate won’t latch or a post is rotted, I’ll note it. What if the yard slopes toward the house? That’s a red flag. I’ll document poor grading or drainage conditions. You may need regrading, drainage solutions, or extensions on downspouts to protect the foundation. → Next up: Post 13: Foundation, Crawlspace & Basement — Uncovering Structural Clues ← Previously: Post 11: Inside the Attic — Insulation, Ventilation & What Can Go Wrong Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Inside the Attic — Insulation, Ventilation & What Can Go Wrong The reason I spend extra time in the attic (and yes, the crawlspace too) is because these are the places most people never see—but where the most critical clues often hide. These aren’t just dusty storage zones. They’re windows into how the home breathes, insulates, drains, and ages. Up in the attic and down in the crawlspace, I change how I inspect—but not how I think. My approach stays the same: I go system by system. That’s how I stay thorough—and how I train every inspector on our team. System-by-System: The Attic Isn’t Just Insulation When I’m in an attic, I’m checking the bottom of the roof for leaks or rot. I’m checking gable sides for insulation gaps. I’m looking at ductwork. I’m identifying knob and tube wiring or spliced connections someone buried in 1982. If there’s plumbing, I’m looking for vent stack leaks or disconnected bath fans dumping warm air into the attic. If I see structural issues—like cracked trusses or sagging joists—it goes in the report. Same goes for crawlspaces. I start with structure: is the floor framing solid and supported? Then I move to plumbing: any leaks, corrosion, or disconnected drain lines? Is there insulation? Is it wet, sagging, or missing entirely? Do I see electrical running where it shouldn’t, or open splices? I check HVAC ducts too. Everything gets its turn. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: active leaks, mold, missing insulation, blocked ventilation, electrical safety issues, animal intrusion, and structural damage. ❌ I’m not looking for: r-value compliance, energy code upgrades, historical insulation techniques, or anything buried behind sealed walls or inaccessible areas. What sets us apart is that we don’t just glance around. We move methodically, system by system—so nothing gets missed. That’s what makes this job so detailed. It’s also what makes it matter. Thermal Imaging: Seeing What Eyes Can’t If conditions are right, I’ll use a thermal camera to spot cold air intrusion, moisture issues, or even hot spots around electrical components. Missing insulation? You’ll see it in blue. Wet insulation that’s evaporating after last night’s storm? You’ll see that too. Thermal imaging doesn’t replace experience—but it gives us a superpower when it counts. Access = Limitations. But We Still Work Hard. If I can’t fit through the access hatch, or if there’s stored junk blocking my path, I’ll note that in the report. Same goes for low-clearance crawlspaces. I go as far as is safe and reasonable. But make no mistake—these spaces matter. They reveal things the living room never will. FAQs: What to Expect From Your Attic & Crawlspace Inspection Do you always go in the attic and crawlspace? Yes—if safe and accessible. If I can’t get in, or can’t see the entire space due to obstructions, I’ll note the limitations in your report. Do you inspect every system in the attic? Yes. I inspect electrical, insulation, ventilation, structure, and plumbing if present. The attic gives clues across all major systems. Will you call out improper insulation or missing vapor barriers? I’ll flag missing or damaged insulation and obvious defects. But I don’t verify code-required insulation thickness or energy ratings. That’s not in the inspection scope. Do you use thermal imaging in attics or crawlspaces? Yes—when conditions support it. Thermal helps us see temperature differences caused by air leaks, water, or missing insulation, especially within 24 hours of rain. → Next up: Post 12: Exterior Systems — Drainage, Siding, and What Can Let Water In ← Previously: Post 10: Roof Inspections — What We Look For With Our Drones and Cameras Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Roof Inspections — What We Look For With Our Drones and Cameras The reason I start most inspections with a close look at the roof—whether I walk it or fly it—is because roofing issues are expensive, dramatic, and often preventable. But let me be clear up front: I’m not checking if your roof was installed “to spec” 14 years ago. I’m not measuring nail depth. I’m looking for one thing—what’s happening right now. I’m Here to See Today’s Roof—Not Rebuild Yesterday’s Installation We don’t verify manufacturer installation methods or confirm what underlayment was used underneath the shingles. That’s outside our scope—and usually invisible anyway. What I *can* do is document deterioration, flashing damage, lifting edges, granule loss, ponding, or poor drainage patterns. And yes, sometimes I find soft spots that feel like trampolines under your feet. If I see roof patching, mismatched repairs, exposed fasteners, or rusted vents, I’ll flag it. If there’s missing flashing or sagging at the valleys or eaves, that’s in the report. But I’m not counting how many nails were used under that last ridge cap. This is a visual, general condition evaluation—not a certification. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: signs of deterioration, age-related wear, storm damage, clogged valleys, displaced materials, and flashing failures. ❌ I’m not looking for: code compliance, brand-specific installation methods, warranties, or guessing how many years are left. Sometimes the roof looks fine—but the interior tells a different story. That’s why if it’s rained recently (within the past 24 hours), I’ll also use thermal imaging from the attic side to look for cold spots, moisture retention, or active leaks. You can’t always see water on the surface—but the infrared camera doesn’t miss the temperature change. Drone vs. Walking: It’s About Access and Safety Some roofs are too steep, slick, or fragile to walk. That’s where drones come in. We use high-resolution photography to capture every slope, ridge, and valley—from a safe distance, without damaging the materials. For one-story homes with safe angles and accessible surfaces, I may still walk the roof if it’s safe and allowed by our standards. Whether by drone or by foot, you’ll get high-quality images in your report—showing exactly what we saw on the day of inspection, from every angle. These are valuable for future maintenance tracking and for getting accurate quotes if repairs are needed. FAQs: What to Know About Roof Inspections Do you walk every roof? No. Safety comes first. If the roof is too steep, slippery, or fragile, I’ll use a drone instead. Either way, you’ll get detailed visuals in your report. Can you tell me how many years the roof has left? No. I can tell you the current condition and visible wear—but not future lifespan. That depends on maintenance, weather, materials, and luck. If needed, I’ll recommend a roofer for deeper evaluation. Do you check for code or installation method compliance? No. We inspect for visible damage and wear. We don’t confirm manufacturer specs, fastener counts, or code issues—that’s the roofer’s job. Can your thermal camera find leaks? Yes—if conditions are right. If it’s rained in the last 24 hours, I’ll scan for cold spots from the attic that suggest water intrusion. But thermal only works when water is actively present or evaporating. → Next up: Post 11: Inside the Attic — Insulation, Ventilation & What Can Go Wrong ← Previously: Post 9: Generalist vs. Specialist — Why We Refer Out Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Generalist vs. Specialist — Why We Refer Out The reason I don’t pretend to be an expert in everything is because no one is. And if an inspector tells you they “give you everything you need to buy the house,” or that you’ll “never need to call in a contractor”—run. That’s not confidence. That’s ego. And it could cost you. Home Inspectors Aren’t Walking Encyclopedias—And They Shouldn’t Be Here’s the truth: I don’t spend 40 hours a week installing roofs. I don’t hold an HVAC license. I’m not on job sites rewiring panel boxes or leveling foundation piers. That’s not my role. And anyone who says otherwise is either overestimating themselves—or underestimating the risks they’re passing on to you. Inspectors are trained to observe, test, and identify signs of potential issues. We’re generalists by design. And a good generalist knows when to say, “You should get a pro to look at this.” That’s not a cop-out. It’s responsible. It’s professional. It’s what protects our clients. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: symptoms that suggest an issue: water stains, poor cooling performance, damaged shingles, outdated panels, or suspicious wiring. ❌ I’m not looking to: diagnose every roof leak, prescribe every HVAC fix, or tell you what every contractor did right or wrong 15 years ago. That’s not my lane—and I stay out of it for your safety. If I walked into your doctor’s office and they said, “Oh yeah, I also do knee surgeries, fill cavities, and deliver babies,” you’d get a second opinion—fast. That’s how you should treat home inspectors who act like trade experts in every discipline. The Danger of the “Smartest Guy in the Room” Inspector Some inspectors lean into this “big-pants energy”—like they know everything about everything, and every other trade pro is a hack. That’s not helpful. It’s ego. And it creates false confidence for buyers who think they’re getting total certainty when really, they’re getting one guy’s opinion. If you want real answers about the roof? Ask a roofer. Want to know if the furnace needs to be replaced? Ask an HVAC tech. My job is to raise the red flag and point you in the right direction—not to pretend I’m the destination. Referrals Aren’t Weakness—They’re the Right Move We refer out because we care about getting it right. Because the stakes are high. Because you’re making a six-figure purchase and deserve more than guesswork or ego-driven guesses. And because if I told you everything was fine and it wasn’t—you’d be stuck. I won’t let that happen. FAQs: Why Home Inspectors Shouldn’t Act Like Specialists Why can’t a home inspector just tell me everything I need to know? Because that’s not how homes—or liability—work. No single person can be an expert in roofing, HVAC, electrical, plumbing, foundations, framing, drainage, insulation, code enforcement, and appliance design. Good inspectors know their limits—and stay within them. Isn’t it your job to know all the systems? It’s my job to understand how they work together, test what I can safely access, and spot signs of failure. It’s not my job to act like I’ve spent 20 years in each trade. That’s why we refer out to licensed pros when needed. Is referring out just a way to cover liability? Partially—but more importantly, it’s a way to give you accurate, actionable info. A generalist points you toward a real solution. A pretender gives you half-answers that can cause real problems later. Should I trust an inspector who claims they “do it all”? Be cautious. Confidence is great. But true pros stay humble—and honest about what they can and can’t evaluate deeply. If your inspector says you don’t need to call anyone else… call someone else. → Next up: Post 10: Roof Inspections — What We Look for With Our Drones and Cameras ← Previously: Post 8: Your Inspection Report Is Not the End: What to Do Next Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Your Inspection Report Is Not the End The reason I want you to read this post is simple: once the inspection is over, the work isn’t done. In fact, it’s just getting started. A home inspection report is a map—but you still have to drive. I’ve given you the overview. I’ve flagged the systems that need attention. But now it’s time to bring in the specialists—the people who can tell you whether it’s a simple fix or a full-on replacement, whether to negotiate for credit or just walk away, and what it’s going to cost to live with or correct the issue. This Is Where the Experts Take Over I’m your home’s general practitioner. I see everything from the top of the roof to the crawlspace slab. But if I flag an issue with the HVAC, I’m not taking the cover off the compressor and checking refrigerant levels. That’s your HVAC tech’s job. If the roof looks suspect? Time to bring in a roofer. If there’s settlement in the foundation? Call a structural engineer. If there’s high water pressure or bad drainage slope? Plumber. Landscaper. Grading contractor. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: visible symptoms, performance problems, and signs of damage or poor installation that warrant a deeper look. ❌ I’m not looking for: exact repair costs, technical diagnostics, or deciding whether to repair or replace. That’s where the specialist comes in. And just like a doctor doesn’t prescribe surgery at your checkup, I’m not telling you to replace your furnace—I’m telling you to call someone who can test and diagnose that furnace in a way I legally and ethically cannot. Examples: What to Do Next Roof issues flagged? Contact a licensed roofer to inspect for soft decking, underlayment damage, flashing failure, or repair vs. replacement options. Cooling not working during function test? Call an HVAC tech for a full system diagnostic. I can’t tell you if it needs Freon or a new coil—but they can. Moisture staining in ceilings or basement? Bring in a water intrusion specialist, roofer, or foundation contractor. I’ll show you where it’s happening—they’ll find out why. Electrical oddities? A licensed electrician can open panels, test loads, verify bonding, and ensure everything meets safety and operational standards. Don’t Just Read It—Act on It Your inspection report isn’t just a list. It’s a punch list. A guide. A way to triage what’s urgent, what’s optional, and what’s unknown. But none of that gets resolved until you pick up the phone or send the email and schedule the next expert in line. Do it now, while everything’s fresh. Get the evaluations. Ask for estimates. Make your decisions with full clarity. That’s the whole point of the inspection—to give you power before the deal closes, not after. FAQs: How to Follow Up After the Inspection Do I really need to call in a specialist for every flagged item? No. Minor or cosmetic items are usually safe to monitor or fix later. But anything marked as a defect, hazard, or “further evaluation recommended” should be reviewed by a licensed professional. Can my inspector tell me if something should be repaired or replaced? No. I can’t guarantee whether a component can be repaired or how long it will last. That call belongs to the specialist who services that system, based on their tools and testing. Should I get quotes before finalizing my purchase? Absolutely. The inspection gives you leverage—but only if you act before contingencies expire. Use the report to guide your due diligence: quotes, estimates, trade consults, and even renegotiations if needed. Will specialists look at the inspection report or want to see the problem in person? Both. Most pros like seeing the report to understand what was found, but they’ll still want to inspect in person before committing to pricing or timelines. That’s normal, and smart. → Next up: Post 9: Generalist vs. Specialist — Why Home Inspectors Recommend Further Evaluation ← Previously: Post 7: What a Home Inspection Is Not: Setting the Right Expectations Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): What a Home Inspection Is Not The reason I’m writing this post is because the word “inspector” carries a lot of weight—and a lot of confusion. People hear “home inspector” and assume I’m part code enforcer, part psychic, part contractor, and part life coach. So let’s set the record straight. A home inspection is a general, visual, non-invasive evaluation of the systems and components of a home. That’s it. I look at what’s there, test what I can safely operate, and report what I see. I don’t predict what’s going to fail next year. I don’t open walls. And I don’t verify whether every contractor who ever worked on the place followed all the rules. I’m an Evaluator—Not an Enforcer I don’t issue violations. I don’t check municipal records. I don’t report code infractions to the city. In fact, I’m not inspecting for code at all. Your 1965 house is allowed to have things a 2025 house isn’t—and I’m not going to ding it for that. If something looks dangerous or clearly wasn’t installed right, I’ll absolutely flag it. But I’m not calling the permit office, and I’m not pulling blueprints. That’s outside my role, and outside the scope of a home inspection. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: systems that are unsafe, malfunctioning, visibly damaged, or installed in a way that raises red flags. ❌ I’m not looking for: cosmetic issues, behind-the-wall conditions, or whether a room addition was permitted in 2008. I also don’t test underground tanks, solar systems, wells, septic systems, or anything that isn’t permanently installed and easily accessible. If something’s off or inaccessible, I’ll say so in the report—and recommend who to call for deeper evaluation. I’m a Generalist—And That’s On Purpose Just like your family doctor doesn’t do knee surgery during your annual checkup, I’m not doing a structural engineering analysis or disassembling your HVAC. I’m here to evaluate, test, and observe. If something feels off, I’ll recommend a specialist. That’s not a cop-out—it’s the smart way to keep you safe without guessing. In fact, the InterNACHI Standards of Practice make this crystal clear: we’re not required to determine the life expectancy of systems, verify compliance with codes, or estimate repair costs. Those things are outside the scope—and trying to do them puts everyone at risk. Limitations Aren’t Flaws—They’re the Framework This isn’t about cutting corners. It’s about staying in the lane that protects everyone: you, me, the seller, the agent, and the future owner. I’m trained and licensed to perform a **general** visual evaluation—not to perform a teardown or a forensic investigation. That’s what trades and specialists are for. And when I say “visual,” I mean it. If I can’t see it or safely access it, I can’t inspect it. That means no moving furniture, no crawling behind storage piles, no removing access panels, and no using special equipment like moisture meters unless I choose to. FAQs: What Your Inspector Isn’t Responsible For Do inspectors check for code compliance? No. Home inspections are not code compliance audits. Codes change constantly and vary by jurisdiction. I inspect for safety and function—not to see if your house passes city hall’s latest checklist. Can you tell me how long things will last? No. I can tell you the age and condition of systems, but not how long they’ll last. Life expectancy varies based on usage, maintenance, and luck. If something’s clearly failing, I’ll flag it—but I don’t predict the future. Do you check permits or contractor work history? No. I assume systems were installed by licensed professionals unless I see otherwise. I’m not verifying permits, licensing, or manufacturer installation techniques unless it affects safety or function. Can you move things or take things apart during the inspection? No. I don’t move personal belongings, open sealed panels, or dismantle systems. I inspect what’s visible and accessible. If something is blocked or inaccessible, I’ll note it in the report. → Next up: Post 8: Your Inspection Report Is Not the End: What to Do Next ← Previously: Post 6: Get the Most Out of Your Inspection Report Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Get the Most Out of Your Inspection Report The reason I always walk through the report with you at the end of the inspection is because I want you to actually *use* it. This isn’t a technical manual. It’s a working document—a tool to help you make smart decisions about your next move. Think of your home inspection like a visit to a general practitioner. I’m here to run a visual evaluation, check your vital signs, and flag anything that seems off. I’ll tell you when I think it’s time to call a plumber, roofer, electrician, or even a structural engineer. But I’m not the specialist. I’m the first step. This Isn’t the End—It’s the Beginning I know it can feel like once the inspection’s done, the work is over. But in reality, this is just where things get moving. You’ll want to review the report carefully and follow up on any flagged issues, especially the ones marked as safety hazards or “further evaluation recommended.” Need an HVAC tech to scope a unit? A roofer to look at flashing? An electrician to confirm panel capacity? That’s the next step. I’ve pointed the flashlight in the right direction. Now it’s time to hand it off to the right person. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: symptoms, visible damage, or evidence of failure—things I can observe and test within the scope of a general home inspection. ❌ I’m not looking for: permit violations, code compliance, trade-specific installation specs, or what your city might say if you start knocking down walls. That’s beyond my role—and yours, until you close. Also, I’m not opening walls, removing access panels, or operating shutoff valves. That’s for liability, yes—but also for respect. This house still belongs to someone else, and I treat it like I would want mine treated by a stranger with a flashlight and tablet. The Inspection Report Is a Compass—Not a Verdict I’m not here to tell you whether to buy the house. That’s your call. My job is to give you clarity about what you’re walking into. If the water heater’s old, I’ll tell you. If the roof is missing flashing, I’ll show you. But whether that’s a dealbreaker or a DIY project? That’s up to you and your comfort level. You might walk away from a house because the garage is cracked. Or you might buy it and fix it yourself with a $10 bag of concrete mix. Both are valid. My job is to give you the facts. Your job is to make the decision. FAQs: How to Actually Use Your Inspection Report Is the inspection report a pass/fail document? Nope. There’s no score. I don’t “pass” or “fail” a house. I report what I see, flag issues, and recommend action steps. The report is a guide—not a yes/no answer. What do I do after reading the report? Review it carefully, and follow up on any items marked as safety concerns, major defects, or “further evaluation needed.” Bring in licensed tradespeople where required. Think of it like triage—handle the serious stuff first, then the cosmetic. Are inspectors allowed to give repair estimates or do the work? No. InterNACHI standards prohibit inspectors from quoting repairs or doing the work themselves. It’s a conflict of interest. My role is to observe and report—not to fix or profit from the findings. Should I share this report with contractors or trades? Yes, absolutely. Most specialists appreciate it. It helps them know what we saw and what we flagged. Just remember—they’ll still want to do their own diagnostic work before giving quotes or starting repairs. → Next up: Post 6: How to Get The Most Out Of Your Inspection Report ← Previously: Post 4: Why Elevation Photos Matter in Your Home Inspection Report Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?