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What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Plumbing Walkthrough — How We Test Every Sink, Toilet, and Drain This is where I roll up my sleeves (literally) and run some water. Every sink, every tub, every toilet—yes, even the jetted ones. The goal isn’t to check if the tile grout matches the backsplash. I’m here to see if water goes where it’s supposed to, how fast it drains, and whether there’s any hidden damage just waiting to show up. Here’s How I Inspect Plumbing Fixtures My standard walkthrough includes: Running water at every sink – kitchen, bathrooms, laundry, utility. Filling and draining tubs/showers – If accessible and safe to do so. Flushing every toilet – Looking for slow fill, leaks, rocking bases. Checking water flow and drainage – I check how long water takes to heat, flow rate at each fixture, and whether drains back up or gurgle. Hose bib pressure test – I use a gauge to read static pressure from exterior faucets. Low pressure can point to supply line or valve issues. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: active leaks, signs of previous water damage, slow drains, low or uneven pressure, cross-connections, and visible pipe condition under sinks or near the water heater. ❌ I’m not looking to: inspect inside walls or underground lines, determine pipe sizing, or test water quality. That’s for licensed plumbers or environmental testers. Video Documentation = Protection for Everyone Every time I test a sink, toilet, tub, or shower, I’m filming it. This protects both the buyer and the seller. If something goes wrong later, there’s clear documentation showing that it was working—or not—on the day of the inspection. I also record how long it takes for hot water to arrive and how well fixtures drain. This Comes Before Thermal Imaging for a Reason All this water testing happens before I run the thermal scan. Why? Because thermal cameras are fantastic at spotting water leaks—but only if there’s moisture to detect. If I just turned on every fixture in the house, the camera may catch a hidden leak or damp spot that would otherwise go unnoticed. Common Red Flags I See Slow draining sinks – Often due to partial clogs or venting issues. Wobbly toilets – A rocking base can mean a broken flange or past leak. Under-sink corrosion – Especially on older copper or galvanized lines. Pressure spikes – High pressure (above 80 PSI) can damage appliances or valves. I document it if found at the hose bib. FAQs: Plumbing Function Testing Do you test every fixture? Yes. I operate all accessible sinks, tubs, showers, and toilets. I also check for functional drainage and pressure issues at each. Do you test exterior plumbing? Yes. I test exterior hose bibs for water flow and measure pressure with a gauge. Leaks or poor pressure are noted in the report. Do you check for pipe leaks behind the wall? No, but if I suspect a leak or see signs of one, I’ll use a thermal camera to investigate. I report anything suspicious for further review. Can you tell if the pipes are up to code? I don’t do code enforcement. I look at function, safety, and red flags. A licensed plumber should be called if installation quality is in question. → Next up: Post 22: Signs of Plumbing Trouble — What an Inspector Looks For ← Previously: Post 20: Water Heaters — What We Inspect (and What We Don’t) Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Water Heaters — What We Inspect (and What We Don’t) Water heaters are one of those systems that can quietly fail over time—until one day you’ve got cold showers and a garage full of water. That’s why I always take a careful look. I’m not here to drain tanks or diagnose burner valves—but I am here to make sure your water heater is safe, functional, and up to the task of daily life. Types of Water Heaters I See (and How I Inspect Them) Gas tank-style water heaters – Most common. I look at venting, gas supply, TPR valve, and visible signs of rust, scorching, or leaks. Electric tank-style units – No gas line or flue. I verify electrical connections, look for scorching, and confirm hot water at fixtures. Tankless (on-demand) units – Usually wall-mounted. I look for installation quality, confirm function by testing hot water, and check for visible errors or leaks. I also note location (garage, closet, attic), physical protection (drip pans, seismic straps), and label data for age and manufacturer recall checks. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: safe installation, TPR discharge line, rust/corrosion, scorch marks, moisture or leaks, unstrapped units, and confirmed hot water from fixtures. ❌ I’m not looking to: open access panels, flush tanks, test burner or element function, or determine hot water recovery rate. Those are HVAC or plumbing tasks. How I Use RecallChek on Your Water Heater Every time I inspect a home, I photograph the model and serial number of the water heater and submit it to our RecallChek system. This cross-checks the unit against federal safety recall databases—and not just today. If a recall is issued next year, you’ll be notified. If you replace your water heater down the line, you can enter the new unit to stay protected. Common Issues I See Missing or improperly installed TPR valve drain line – A major safety hazard. Scorch marks or soot around burner access – Often indicates combustion or ventilation problems. No thermal expansion tank (where required by code) – I document it but don’t require one unless it’s in local scope. Leaking or rusting tank bottom – Time for replacement. That leak’s not getting better. FAQs: What to Expect From a Water Heater Inspection Do you test if the water heater is working? Yes. I run hot water at multiple fixtures to confirm the system is heating water properly and check temperature with a thermometer. Do you open or drain the water heater? No. That’s outside the scope of a visual home inspection. I inspect what’s visible and accessible only. What is RecallChek and how does it help? RecallChek uses model and serial numbers to identify if a water heater (or other appliance) has a safety recall—now or in the future. You stay in the loop even after moving in. Can you tell me how old the water heater is? Usually. Most manufacturers code the year into the serial number, and I note that in your report. Age matters when budgeting replacements. → Next up: Post 21: Plumbing Walkthrough — How We Test Every Sink, Toilet, and Drain ← Previously: Post 19: Ducts & Vents — The Forgotten System That Impacts Your Comfort Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Ducts & Vents — The Forgotten System That Impacts Your Comfort Ask a homeowner why one room is always freezing or sweltering, and they’ll usually blame the furnace or the A/C. But more often than not, the problem is in the ducts. Crushed, disconnected, undersized, or just plain missing — ducts are one of the biggest sources of inefficiency in any home. And I always take a look. I Check That Every Room Has a Source of Heating or Cooling During every inspection, I walk every room, closet, and converted garage looking for one thing: a supply register. There should be at least one heat or cooling source in every room that’s considered “habitable space.” If there isn’t? That’s a big deal. The room may not heat or cool evenly—or may not be compliant for its intended use (like a bedroom or office). Thermal Cameras Help Spot Hidden Problems I love using my thermal camera when checking ducted systems. If the HVAC is running, the camera can show me which vents are putting out air—and which aren’t. Sometimes the difference is obvious: one room is ice cold, the other is lukewarm. That usually means a disconnected or leaking duct, even if the attic or crawlspace hides it well. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: missing supply vents, airflow consistency, disconnected or damaged ducts, obvious airflow restriction, poor attic/crawl insulation on ductwork. ❌ I’m not looking to: cut open ceilings, pressure test the system, or run CFM airflow diagnostics. That’s for ducting specialists or HVAC techs. Common Duct Red Flags I See All the Time Disconnected ducts – Usually found in attics or crawlspaces. Air ends up in the wrong place (like your attic). Crushed or compressed flex ducts – Poor installation or too much storage weight can restrict airflow. No return air path – Without a way for air to get back to the HVAC system, airflow suffers, and pressure builds. Dirty or moldy vents – Not just gross—can indicate a filter issue, moisture problem, or lack of cleaning. How This Affects Comfort & Utility Bills If your ducts are inefficient, everything else suffers. Your HVAC system works harder. Your rooms stay uneven. And your bills go up. That’s why I include duct issues in my report. Even if the system itself works fine, poor distribution undermines the whole setup. FAQs: Ducts, Vents & Airflow Should every room have a vent? Yes. Every habitable room should have a source of heating or cooling. Missing vents can affect comfort, resale value, and compliance. Can you tell if a duct is leaking? Sometimes. If there’s no airflow at a vent and no visible damage, I may use a thermal camera to look for signs of heat or cooling loss behind the wall or ceiling. For exact location or pressure testing, you’d need an HVAC pro. Do you check ductwork in the attic or crawlspace? Yes—if safely accessible. I look for disconnected runs, insulation issues, or physical damage. I don’t open sealed or inaccessible spaces. Do you test airflow pressure? No. That requires specialized duct testing tools. I use visual inspection and thermal imaging to document performance concerns. → Next up: Post 20: Water Heaters — What We Inspect (and What We Don’t) ← Previously: Post 18: Cooling Systems — Testing, Limitations, and What’s in Scope Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Cooling Systems — Testing, Limitations, and What’s in Scope The first thing most people ask in summer: “Does the A/C work?” And fair enough—if you’re touring homes in July, that cool blast of air matters. So during the inspection, I absolutely test the cooling system. But here’s the truth: I’m not an HVAC tech. I’m here to verify operation, not rebuild the compressor in your driveway. Cooling Systems I Commonly Inspect Here’s what I’m trained to inspect—and how I approach it: Central air conditioning – I activate it using the thermostat (if weather permits), confirm the system runs, and check for cold airflow at supply vents. I also inspect the exterior condenser unit visually. Heat pumps (in cooling mode) – Same process as central A/C. These may also serve as your heating system, depending on setup. Mini-split systems (ductless) – I test each head unit (wall-mounted unit) for operation and cool airflow. Wall A/C units – Tested for operation and airflow, if accessible and plugged in. Swamp coolers / evaporative coolers – These are common in dry climates. I confirm they turn on and blow air, but I don’t test pad condition, water flow, or drain systems. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: systems that activate with the thermostat, air that feels cool at vents, unusual noises, water discharge from condensate lines, and condenser unit condition. ❌ I’m not looking to: measure refrigerant pressure, dismantle the unit, remove panels, verify SEER ratings, or confirm BTU performance. That’s a job for an HVAC tech. Weather and Safety Limitations If it’s cold outside, I won’t run the A/C. Why? Running cooling systems below ~60°F can damage the compressor. In that case, I’ll note the limitation and recommend that the buyer test the system as soon as outdoor temperatures allow. How I Use Thermal Imaging to Verify Cooling I often use a thermal camera or laser thermometer to compare return and supply temperatures. This helps verify that the system is actually cooling—not just making noise. A 15–20°F difference between return and supply is typically a good sign. About Swamp Coolers (Evaporative Coolers) If you’re from a humid climate, you might not have seen one before. Evaporative coolers are common in dry regions. They work by blowing air across a wet pad to cool the space. They’re not true A/C—they don’t use refrigerant, and they struggle in humid conditions. I’ll confirm operation if the unit is on and accessible, but I won’t test water flow, pad condition, or duct routing. Those systems are quirky, and they require specific maintenance that’s outside the scope of a general home inspection. FAQs: Cooling System Inspection Do you test the air conditioner? Yes—if weather and access allow. I activate the system using normal controls and check for cool airflow from vents or wall units. Can you tell if the A/C is low on refrigerant? No. That requires specialized gauges and training. If the system runs but doesn’t cool properly, I’ll recommend an HVAC evaluation. Why won’t you test the A/C when it’s cold outside? Running an A/C system in cold weather can damage the compressor. If it’s below 60°F, I’ll document the limitation and explain next steps. Do you test swamp coolers? I test basic function—turning it on and verifying airflow. But I don’t assess water distribution, pad condition, or deeper system mechanics. → Next up: Post 19: Ducts & Vents — The Forgotten System That Impacts Your Comfort ← Previously: Post 17: Heating Systems — From Pilot Lights to Furnace Filters Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Heating Systems — From Pilot Lights to Furnace Filters It’s always funny to me how many different ways there are to heat a house—and how few of them actually work when I show up. From forced air to boilers to radiant floors, I’ve seen it all. Some are modern marvels, some are 40 years old and just praying for retirement. My job? Test it safely and report what I find. That’s it. I’m not tuning it, I’m not repairing it, and I’m definitely not voiding your warranty by poking where I shouldn’t. The Systems I Commonly Inspect Here’s a short list of what I’ve tested, activated, or called out over the years: Gas furnaces – Most common. I check the thermostat, run the system, inspect flame visibility, venting, and filter access. Electric furnaces – Quieter, but I still test for function, heat output, and safe wiring. Heat pumps – These reverse depending on the season. If it’s cold out, I can only test heating, and vice versa. Boilers and hydronic systems – I check for heat at radiators, look for leaks, rust, signs of pressure issues. I don’t test expansion tanks or bleed radiators. Radiant floor heat – Electric or water-based. If it’s working, my thermal camera helps confirm. If it’s not accessible or off, I report limitations. Wall and baseboard heaters – Electric or gas. I test for function and clearance but don’t disassemble. Wood stoves, pellet stoves – Visually inspected only. I don’t light fires or confirm chimney sweep maintenance. Solar thermal systems – Extremely rare, but I’ve seen them. Usually tied to radiant floors or water. Inspected visually only; I don’t test pumps or storage tanks. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: operation, heat output, strange smells, burner flame condition, rust, corrosion, soot, venting issues, dirty filters, and safety hazards. ❌ I’m not looking to: service burners, adjust gas pressure, inspect internal exchanger coils, or confirm installation specs. That’s for HVAC pros. Why You Might Need a Specialist If I can’t get the system to turn on—or it runs poorly, smells off, or shows signs of damage—I’ll let you know. And you’ll want to call in a licensed HVAC contractor. They can scope the heat exchanger, run diagnostics, or tell you if the blower motor is about to die. I don’t guess. I document. My Thermal Camera Helps Spot Hidden Heat (Or the Lack of It) One of my favorite tools for heating systems is my thermal camera. I use it to verify warm airflow from registers, spot radiant floor patterns, and check for cold zones. It’s especially useful when floor heating is claimed but the seller “forgot” to leave it turned on. If it’s running, I’ll know. If it’s cold, you will too. Access and Weather Limitations If the thermostat is locked, the unit is shut off at the breaker, or it’s 100°F outside and the system is in cooling mode only, I document that and explain the limitation. I don’t override owner settings or force systems into operation that aren’t meant to be running. Heating system safety matters. FAQs: What to Expect From the Heating System Inspection Do you test every heating system? I test every accessible, safe-to-operate system using normal controls. If it’s off, locked, or weather-restricted, I’ll explain why it wasn’t tested in the report. Can you tell me how old the furnace is? Yes—usually by decoding the serial number on the unit. Age helps indicate expected lifespan and upgrade timing. Do you open up the furnace or boiler? No. I remove the front service panel if it’s safe, but I don’t dismantle units or access sealed components. That’s HVAC territory. What if the system doesn’t work? I’ll report that clearly—and recommend a licensed HVAC technician evaluate the system. Heating repairs or replacements can be costly, and you need expert advice. → Next up: Post 18: Cooling Systems — Testing, Limitations, and What’s in Scope ← Previously: Post 16: Electrical Red Flags — Panels and Wiring That Worry Inspectors Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Electrical Red Flags — Panels and Wiring That Worry Inspectors This is the part of the job where my eyes narrow, my flashlight gets brighter, and sometimes, I quietly mutter “uh-oh.” Because once you’ve opened enough panels, you learn exactly what to be worried about—and some of it’s hidden behind clean drywall and a fresh paint job. The Panels That Make Inspectors Sweat Let’s start with the big names in bad reputations: Federal Pacific (FPE), Zinsco/Sylvania, Challenger, and certain older Pushmatic panels. These are known for not tripping when they should, loose breaker fit, and in some cases, real-world fire history. If I see one of these, I don’t sugarcoat it. Even if it “seems to work,” it may not trip under overload—which defeats the whole purpose of having breakers in the first place. Hot Spots, Loose Wires & Burning Smells Sometimes, I find a scorched breaker or a melted wire jacket. Other times, the panel looks perfect—until I scan it with a thermal camera. That’s when I find a breaker glowing like a stovetop burner, while all the others are cool. That’s an immediate safety concern. Overheating can mean a loose connection, wrong-sized wire, or a breaker on its last leg. I use thermal imaging to detect: Loose outlets or receptacles with overheated terminals Overloaded or improperly sized breakers Arcing behind walls or in light fixtures (when detectable) And no, I don’t “scan everything” with the thermal camera. Just where it makes sense—especially panels, suspect breakers, and old wiring. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: known hazardous panels, scorched or melting wiring, buzzing fixtures, loose or hot outlets, open splices, and signs of amateur repairs. ❌ I’m not looking to: test every breaker under load, open sealed junctions, rewire unsafe panels, or bypass safety devices. Wiring Mistakes That Get Noticed I’ve seen a lot. Wires jammed through unprotected knockouts, grounds missing entirely, romex pinched under panel covers, breakers with the wrong wire gauge, and homemade “fixes” involving duct tape and hope. I’ll call those out—every time. Aluminum, Still a Problem? Yep. Especially single-strand aluminum wiring. It’s prone to loosening, oxidizing, and overheating when paired with standard switches and outlets. If I find it in a panel—or branching off to a bedroom—I’ll flag it and recommend a licensed electrician check it out. FAQs: Electrical Hazards & Panel Red Flags Do you use thermal imaging on the panel? Yes, especially if breakers look suspect or feel warm. A thermal camera can spot overheating that isn’t visible to the eye—and that’s a big deal. What panel brands are considered dangerous? Federal Pacific, Zinsco/Sylvania, Challenger, and older Pushmatic panels are known for failure to trip, overheating, and outdated design. Replacement is often recommended. Can you tell if an outlet is overheating? If accessible, yes. I test for polarity, grounding, and signs of overheating. Thermal cameras help reveal hot terminals—even if the faceplate looks fine. Will you test every breaker? No. Breakers are visually inspected and evaluated for signs of damage or heat. I don’t trip-test them unless there’s an obvious issue or it’s part of an AFCI/GFCI combo test. → Next up: Post 17: Heating Systems — From Pilot Lights to Furnace Filters ← Previously: Post 15: Electrical System Overview — What We Inspect and Why It Matters Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Electrical System Overview — What We Inspect and Why It Matters If there’s one part of the inspection where precision really matters, it’s the electrical system. Not because it’s complicated—but because it’s potentially dangerous. I inspect panels, test outlets, and identify safety risks. But I don’t remove wires or confirm every connection deep inside the walls. And for good reason. When I Open the Panel (And When I Don’t) If the main service panel is safely accessible—dry, unlocked, and not restricted by the builder—I’ll open the dead front cover and document what’s inside. I look for breaker labeling, wire gauge, bonding, grounding, overheating signs, improper double-taps, missing knockouts, and more. But if it’s raining, there’s standing water, or the panel is locked or tagged “Do Not Open,” I leave it closed and note it in your report. Safety first—every time. GFCI vs. AFCI: Know the Difference I test all accessible outlets—especially kitchen, bathroom, garage, and exterior receptacles—with a plug-in tester. I verify GFCIs (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters) and AFCIs (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters) wherever required or installed. GFCI = detects water-related shock risks. Think bathrooms, kitchens, laundry, outside. AFCI = detects dangerous arcing. Required in most living areas of newer homes. If a breaker or outlet fails to trip—or if a GFCI outlet is missing in a required location—I’ll call it out. Sometimes it’s a missing upgrade. Sometimes it’s a safety hazard. Either way, it matters. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: visible wiring types, safety devices, improper breakers, overheated connections, open grounds, and code-recommended safety upgrades. ❌ I’m not looking to: remove wiring, test every conductor, open sealed junction boxes, or verify permit history. Aluminum Wiring? Yes, I Look for It Single-strand aluminum wiring (popular in the late 1960s and 70s) is a known fire risk. I’m trained to spot it—typically labeled “AL” on wire sheathing inside panels. Single-strand aluminum expands and contracts more than copper, which can loosen connections and cause overheating. Multi-strand aluminum (like for your oven or AC unit) is still common today and generally safe when installed properly. But if I see single-strand AL in a place it shouldn’t be—or signs of overheating or incompatible breakers—I’ll recommend evaluation by a licensed electrician. Three-Prong Outlets Without Grounds Just because it has three holes doesn’t mean it’s grounded. I test for open grounds at every accessible outlet. If a three-prong outlet isn’t grounded—or worse, falsely wired to show it is—I document it. This is especially common in older homes that were “updated” without proper rewiring. It’s not just about function—it’s about shock risk. FAQs: What to Expect From the Electrical Inspection Do you open the electrical panel? Yes—if safe and accessible. I don’t open panels in wet conditions, when blocked, or when tagged by builders. Your report will note any limitations. What’s the difference between GFCI and AFCI? GFCI protects against electric shock near water. AFCI protects against fires from arcing wires. Both are tested when accessible and reported if missing or failed. Is all aluminum wiring dangerous? No. Multi-strand aluminum (for large appliances) is fine when installed correctly. Single-strand aluminum in branch circuits can be a fire hazard—and should be evaluated by an electrician. Do you test every outlet? Every accessible one, yes. I test for polarity, grounding, trip function, and visible safety risks. Obstructed or sealed outlets are noted as not tested. → Next up: Post 16: Electrical Red Flags — Panels and Wiring That Worry Inspectors ← Previously: Post 14: Do You Have Good Bones? What a Structural Inspection Reveals Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Do You Have Good Bones? What a Structural Inspection Reveals Everyone wants to know: does this house have good bones? And what they really mean is, “Will it fall apart on me?” That’s fair. But let’s be honest: I’m not an engineer running stress tests on your roof load. I’m a trained home inspector looking for symptoms—the visible stuff that tells me what might be going wrong underneath. My Job Is to Spot the Signs—Not Solve the Math I look at how the house is behaving. Are floors sloping? Are door frames out of square? Are there cracks at window corners or stair-step patterns in brick? Those are red flags that suggest movement or shifting. But without removing finishes, testing soil, or analyzing load paths, I can’t tell you exactly *why* it’s happening—or how to fix it. What I can do is point out what’s visible, explain what it might mean, and help you decide if a licensed structural engineer should take a deeper look. Their job is different from mine—and yes, it usually starts at $750 just to show up. That’s why I don’t push every buyer to get one. Wait and see what I find first. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: sloping floors, out-of-plumb walls, cracks in walls and foundations, door alignment issues, exposed truss damage, and signs of overloading. ❌ I’m not looking to: verify framing code, pull permits, engineer a fix, or determine root structural loads. That’s a job for the PE with a calculator and a tape measure. When “Good Bones” Doesn’t Mean Perfect Many older homes settle unevenly over time—but are still structurally sound. If I don’t see signs of recent movement, water intrusion, or active shifting, I’ll say that. Minor sloping in a 1950s ranch may be normal. But fresh cracks or doors that won’t latch are things I call out. In attics and basements, I look at the framing itself. Are trusses intact? Any cracks, bowing, or poor repairs? Have braces been cut or altered? Are beams undersized or sagging? All of this goes in your report—with photos, notes, and recommendations. FAQs: What to Expect From a Structural Inspection During a Home Inspection Do you evaluate framing? Yes—where visible. I look at attic and crawlspace framing, visible bracing, roof trusses, and signs of modification or failure. But I don’t open walls or confirm design compliance. Should I get a structural engineer? Maybe. If I see major red flags—active movement, major sagging, or advanced foundation distress—I’ll recommend it. But you don’t need one unless something I find points in that direction. Do you report minor sloping or cracking? Yes. Any signs of movement, even if minor, are included in the report with photos and notes. These help you monitor over time—or bring in pros if needed. Can you tell me if the house is safe? I can tell you what I see today—and whether there are concerns. I can’t predict future failure or unseen issues. Think of this as a first diagnosis, not the final treatment plan. → Next up: Post 15: Electrical System Overview — What We Inspect and Why It Matters ← Previously: Post 13: Foundation, Crawlspace & Basement — Uncovering Structural Clues Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Foundation, Crawlspace & Basement — Uncovering Structural Clues The reason I spend time staring at concrete piers and dirty crawlspace walls is because the structural clues down here matter more than anything happening upstairs. You might have new flooring and fresh paint—but if the home is settling, shifting, or collecting water underneath, that’s the stuff that really counts. My Mindset in a Crawlspace or Basement I’m not just glancing for water. I’m looking at the support systems. Are piers solid, straight, and continuous? Are they resting on proper footings or makeshift blocks? Is there evidence of movement, like gaps between beams and supports, or diagonal cracking in stem walls? Foundation systems vary—slab-on-grade, post and pier, basement, stem wall, pilings—but the approach is the same. I’m looking for settlement, shifting, and moisture. I’m also checking whether repairs have been made—and how well. Foam shims and cardboard spacers aren’t load-bearing materials (no matter how clever the last guy thought he was). Moisture Is the Common Denominator Water doesn’t belong inside a crawlspace or basement. I check for efflorescence (that white powdery residue from water seepage), dark staining, standing water, and mold-like substances. These may not just mean dampness—they may point to poor drainage or a failing sump pump system. Sump Pumps: What I Can and Can’t Test If the sump pump is exposed and I can reach it safely, I’ll inspect its condition. I look for power supply, float switch condition, visible rust or deterioration, and backup battery systems. If there’s standing water or a test button, I may activate it. But I don’t manually fill sump pits, override systems, or perform destructive testing. If it’s a sealed system or inaccessible due to safety or design, I’ll document what I can see—and note that further evaluation may be needed. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: uneven floors, cracked foundation walls, displaced piers, sagging framing, long-term moisture, and signs of movement. ❌ I’m not looking to: conduct soil tests, certify foundation engineering, test underground drainage, or predict how the home will settle over the next decade. When I Flag a Structural Concern If I see horizontal foundation cracks, wall bowing, improper support spacing, or sloped floors beyond normal tolerance, I’ll let you know. These signs don’t always mean disaster—but they do mean a structural contractor should take a deeper look. Just like a knee specialist doesn’t diagnose from an x-ray alone, you need boots-on-the-ground expertise for repairs and solutions. FAQs: Understanding Foundation and Basement Inspections Do you test the sump pump? Only if safely accessible and testable without altering the system. I’ll report visible condition and note if testing was limited or not possible. If it’s sealed, damaged, or inaccessible, I’ll recommend evaluation by a plumber or drainage contractor. Will you tell me if the foundation is bad? I’ll report cracks, movement, sagging, or signs of distress. But a full engineering opinion is beyond the scope of a home inspection. My goal is to tell you what’s visible, and whether it warrants a second look. Do you enter crawlspaces even if they’re tight? Yes—if safe and accessible. I’ll crawl, duck, and inch through to get eyes on the piers and framing. If entry is blocked or dangerous, I’ll document that in your report. What foundation types do you inspect? I inspect slab, post and pier, stem wall, and basement foundations. Each has different issues—but the same red flags: water, settlement, and failing support systems. → Next up: Post 14: Do You Have Good Bones? What a Structural Inspection Reveals ← Previously: Post 12: Exterior Systems — Drainage, Siding, and What Can Let Water In Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Exterior Systems — Drainage, Siding, and What Can Let Water In The reason I spend extra time walking the outside of the home isn’t to admire the curb appeal. It’s to figure out how water is—or isn’t—getting away from the structure. Most buyers see fresh paint and new mulch. I see moisture traps, compromised siding, and slopes that tilt the wrong way. Where I Walk, I’m Looking for Water I start with drainage. Is the ground sloped away from the house? Are gutters extended far enough from the foundation? Is there standing water or evidence of erosion? Water is the number one enemy of every home—outside and in. So that’s my starting point. From there, I evaluate siding: is it soft, delaminating, cracking, or pulling away? Are there gaps around hose bibs, cable entries, or vents? Does vegetation touch or grow too close to the walls? That’s not just messy—it’s a moisture invitation. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: poor grading, siding damage, missing or failed caulking, vegetation contact, deteriorated windows or trim, and compromised penetrations. ❌ I’m not looking for: cosmetic paint quality, landscaping trends, or fence style preferences. This isn’t an HGTV critique—it’s a water intrusion check. I also look at hardscapes—like driveways, walkways, patios, and retaining walls. Are they cracking, sloping back toward the house, or breaking apart due to tree roots or age? That matters. A cracked driveway may not seem urgent, but if it’s redirecting water toward your crawlspace, you’ll care a lot more in February. Doors, Windows, and Trim: Where Water Slips In Exterior doors and windows are constant battlegrounds. I’m looking at weatherstripping, trim rot, soft thresholds, failed caulk lines, and gaps. Once again—it’s all about water. And sometimes, bugs. These small details are where big repairs start. Same goes for fences and gates. If they’re falling apart, leaning, or unsecured, it might not affect the house’s structure—but it says something about maintenance overall. The exterior tells a story. You just have to look past the fresh mulch and door wreath. FAQs: What to Expect From the Exterior Inspection Do you evaluate landscaping or yard layout? Only as it relates to drainage, slope, and potential structural impact. I don’t assess plant types, aesthetics, or HOA compliance—but I do care if that nice flowerbed is holding water against your foundation. Will you note cosmetic paint flaws or siding color issues? No. I’m looking for damage, not design. Paint quality only matters to me if it’s failing in a way that exposes the structure to risk—like peeling on wood siding. Do you inspect fences and gates? Yes—but only for general condition, safety, and damage. I don’t inspect for zoning, boundary lines, or lock mechanisms. If a gate won’t latch or a post is rotted, I’ll note it. What if the yard slopes toward the house? That’s a red flag. I’ll document poor grading or drainage conditions. You may need regrading, drainage solutions, or extensions on downspouts to protect the foundation. → Next up: Post 13: Foundation, Crawlspace & Basement — Uncovering Structural Clues ← Previously: Post 11: Inside the Attic — Insulation, Ventilation & What Can Go Wrong Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?