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What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Inside the Attic — Insulation, Ventilation & What Can Go Wrong The reason I spend extra time in the attic (and yes, the crawlspace too) is because these are the places most people never see—but where the most critical clues often hide. These aren’t just dusty storage zones. They’re windows into how the home breathes, insulates, drains, and ages. Up in the attic and down in the crawlspace, I change how I inspect—but not how I think. My approach stays the same: I go system by system. That’s how I stay thorough—and how I train every inspector on our team. System-by-System: The Attic Isn’t Just Insulation When I’m in an attic, I’m checking the bottom of the roof for leaks or rot. I’m checking gable sides for insulation gaps. I’m looking at ductwork. I’m identifying knob and tube wiring or spliced connections someone buried in 1982. If there’s plumbing, I’m looking for vent stack leaks or disconnected bath fans dumping warm air into the attic. If I see structural issues—like cracked trusses or sagging joists—it goes in the report. Same goes for crawlspaces. I start with structure: is the floor framing solid and supported? Then I move to plumbing: any leaks, corrosion, or disconnected drain lines? Is there insulation? Is it wet, sagging, or missing entirely? Do I see electrical running where it shouldn’t, or open splices? I check HVAC ducts too. Everything gets its turn. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: active leaks, mold, missing insulation, blocked ventilation, electrical safety issues, animal intrusion, and structural damage. ❌ I’m not looking for: r-value compliance, energy code upgrades, historical insulation techniques, or anything buried behind sealed walls or inaccessible areas. What sets us apart is that we don’t just glance around. We move methodically, system by system—so nothing gets missed. That’s what makes this job so detailed. It’s also what makes it matter. Thermal Imaging: Seeing What Eyes Can’t If conditions are right, I’ll use a thermal camera to spot cold air intrusion, moisture issues, or even hot spots around electrical components. Missing insulation? You’ll see it in blue. Wet insulation that’s evaporating after last night’s storm? You’ll see that too. Thermal imaging doesn’t replace experience—but it gives us a superpower when it counts. Access = Limitations. But We Still Work Hard. If I can’t fit through the access hatch, or if there’s stored junk blocking my path, I’ll note that in the report. Same goes for low-clearance crawlspaces. I go as far as is safe and reasonable. But make no mistake—these spaces matter. They reveal things the living room never will. FAQs: What to Expect From Your Attic & Crawlspace Inspection Do you always go in the attic and crawlspace? Yes—if safe and accessible. If I can’t get in, or can’t see the entire space due to obstructions, I’ll note the limitations in your report. Do you inspect every system in the attic? Yes. I inspect electrical, insulation, ventilation, structure, and plumbing if present. The attic gives clues across all major systems. Will you call out improper insulation or missing vapor barriers? I’ll flag missing or damaged insulation and obvious defects. But I don’t verify code-required insulation thickness or energy ratings. That’s not in the inspection scope. Do you use thermal imaging in attics or crawlspaces? Yes—when conditions support it. Thermal helps us see temperature differences caused by air leaks, water, or missing insulation, especially within 24 hours of rain. → Next up: Post 12: Exterior Systems — Drainage, Siding, and What Can Let Water In ← Previously: Post 10: Roof Inspections — What We Look For With Our Drones and Cameras Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Roof Inspections — What We Look For With Our Drones and Cameras The reason I start most inspections with a close look at the roof—whether I walk it or fly it—is because roofing issues are expensive, dramatic, and often preventable. But let me be clear up front: I’m not checking if your roof was installed “to spec” 14 years ago. I’m not measuring nail depth. I’m looking for one thing—what’s happening right now. I’m Here to See Today’s Roof—Not Rebuild Yesterday’s Installation We don’t verify manufacturer installation methods or confirm what underlayment was used underneath the shingles. That’s outside our scope—and usually invisible anyway. What I *can* do is document deterioration, flashing damage, lifting edges, granule loss, ponding, or poor drainage patterns. And yes, sometimes I find soft spots that feel like trampolines under your feet. If I see roof patching, mismatched repairs, exposed fasteners, or rusted vents, I’ll flag it. If there’s missing flashing or sagging at the valleys or eaves, that’s in the report. But I’m not counting how many nails were used under that last ridge cap. This is a visual, general condition evaluation—not a certification. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: signs of deterioration, age-related wear, storm damage, clogged valleys, displaced materials, and flashing failures. ❌ I’m not looking for: code compliance, brand-specific installation methods, warranties, or guessing how many years are left. Sometimes the roof looks fine—but the interior tells a different story. That’s why if it’s rained recently (within the past 24 hours), I’ll also use thermal imaging from the attic side to look for cold spots, moisture retention, or active leaks. You can’t always see water on the surface—but the infrared camera doesn’t miss the temperature change. Drone vs. Walking: It’s About Access and Safety Some roofs are too steep, slick, or fragile to walk. That’s where drones come in. We use high-resolution photography to capture every slope, ridge, and valley—from a safe distance, without damaging the materials. For one-story homes with safe angles and accessible surfaces, I may still walk the roof if it’s safe and allowed by our standards. Whether by drone or by foot, you’ll get high-quality images in your report—showing exactly what we saw on the day of inspection, from every angle. These are valuable for future maintenance tracking and for getting accurate quotes if repairs are needed. FAQs: What to Know About Roof Inspections Do you walk every roof? No. Safety comes first. If the roof is too steep, slippery, or fragile, I’ll use a drone instead. Either way, you’ll get detailed visuals in your report. Can you tell me how many years the roof has left? No. I can tell you the current condition and visible wear—but not future lifespan. That depends on maintenance, weather, materials, and luck. If needed, I’ll recommend a roofer for deeper evaluation. Do you check for code or installation method compliance? No. We inspect for visible damage and wear. We don’t confirm manufacturer specs, fastener counts, or code issues—that’s the roofer’s job. Can your thermal camera find leaks? Yes—if conditions are right. If it’s rained in the last 24 hours, I’ll scan for cold spots from the attic that suggest water intrusion. But thermal only works when water is actively present or evaporating. → Next up: Post 11: Inside the Attic — Insulation, Ventilation & What Can Go Wrong ← Previously: Post 9: Generalist vs. Specialist — Why We Refer Out Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Generalist vs. Specialist — Why We Refer Out The reason I don’t pretend to be an expert in everything is because no one is. And if an inspector tells you they “give you everything you need to buy the house,” or that you’ll “never need to call in a contractor”—run. That’s not confidence. That’s ego. And it could cost you. Home Inspectors Aren’t Walking Encyclopedias—And They Shouldn’t Be Here’s the truth: I don’t spend 40 hours a week installing roofs. I don’t hold an HVAC license. I’m not on job sites rewiring panel boxes or leveling foundation piers. That’s not my role. And anyone who says otherwise is either overestimating themselves—or underestimating the risks they’re passing on to you. Inspectors are trained to observe, test, and identify signs of potential issues. We’re generalists by design. And a good generalist knows when to say, “You should get a pro to look at this.” That’s not a cop-out. It’s responsible. It’s professional. It’s what protects our clients. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: symptoms that suggest an issue: water stains, poor cooling performance, damaged shingles, outdated panels, or suspicious wiring. ❌ I’m not looking to: diagnose every roof leak, prescribe every HVAC fix, or tell you what every contractor did right or wrong 15 years ago. That’s not my lane—and I stay out of it for your safety. If I walked into your doctor’s office and they said, “Oh yeah, I also do knee surgeries, fill cavities, and deliver babies,” you’d get a second opinion—fast. That’s how you should treat home inspectors who act like trade experts in every discipline. The Danger of the “Smartest Guy in the Room” Inspector Some inspectors lean into this “big-pants energy”—like they know everything about everything, and every other trade pro is a hack. That’s not helpful. It’s ego. And it creates false confidence for buyers who think they’re getting total certainty when really, they’re getting one guy’s opinion. If you want real answers about the roof? Ask a roofer. Want to know if the furnace needs to be replaced? Ask an HVAC tech. My job is to raise the red flag and point you in the right direction—not to pretend I’m the destination. Referrals Aren’t Weakness—They’re the Right Move We refer out because we care about getting it right. Because the stakes are high. Because you’re making a six-figure purchase and deserve more than guesswork or ego-driven guesses. And because if I told you everything was fine and it wasn’t—you’d be stuck. I won’t let that happen. FAQs: Why Home Inspectors Shouldn’t Act Like Specialists Why can’t a home inspector just tell me everything I need to know? Because that’s not how homes—or liability—work. No single person can be an expert in roofing, HVAC, electrical, plumbing, foundations, framing, drainage, insulation, code enforcement, and appliance design. Good inspectors know their limits—and stay within them. Isn’t it your job to know all the systems? It’s my job to understand how they work together, test what I can safely access, and spot signs of failure. It’s not my job to act like I’ve spent 20 years in each trade. That’s why we refer out to licensed pros when needed. Is referring out just a way to cover liability? Partially—but more importantly, it’s a way to give you accurate, actionable info. A generalist points you toward a real solution. A pretender gives you half-answers that can cause real problems later. Should I trust an inspector who claims they “do it all”? Be cautious. Confidence is great. But true pros stay humble—and honest about what they can and can’t evaluate deeply. If your inspector says you don’t need to call anyone else… call someone else. → Next up: Post 10: Roof Inspections — What We Look for With Our Drones and Cameras ← Previously: Post 8: Your Inspection Report Is Not the End: What to Do Next Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Your Inspection Report Is Not the End The reason I want you to read this post is simple: once the inspection is over, the work isn’t done. In fact, it’s just getting started. A home inspection report is a map—but you still have to drive. I’ve given you the overview. I’ve flagged the systems that need attention. But now it’s time to bring in the specialists—the people who can tell you whether it’s a simple fix or a full-on replacement, whether to negotiate for credit or just walk away, and what it’s going to cost to live with or correct the issue. This Is Where the Experts Take Over I’m your home’s general practitioner. I see everything from the top of the roof to the crawlspace slab. But if I flag an issue with the HVAC, I’m not taking the cover off the compressor and checking refrigerant levels. That’s your HVAC tech’s job. If the roof looks suspect? Time to bring in a roofer. If there’s settlement in the foundation? Call a structural engineer. If there’s high water pressure or bad drainage slope? Plumber. Landscaper. Grading contractor. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: visible symptoms, performance problems, and signs of damage or poor installation that warrant a deeper look. ❌ I’m not looking for: exact repair costs, technical diagnostics, or deciding whether to repair or replace. That’s where the specialist comes in. And just like a doctor doesn’t prescribe surgery at your checkup, I’m not telling you to replace your furnace—I’m telling you to call someone who can test and diagnose that furnace in a way I legally and ethically cannot. Examples: What to Do Next Roof issues flagged? Contact a licensed roofer to inspect for soft decking, underlayment damage, flashing failure, or repair vs. replacement options. Cooling not working during function test? Call an HVAC tech for a full system diagnostic. I can’t tell you if it needs Freon or a new coil—but they can. Moisture staining in ceilings or basement? Bring in a water intrusion specialist, roofer, or foundation contractor. I’ll show you where it’s happening—they’ll find out why. Electrical oddities? A licensed electrician can open panels, test loads, verify bonding, and ensure everything meets safety and operational standards. Don’t Just Read It—Act on It Your inspection report isn’t just a list. It’s a punch list. A guide. A way to triage what’s urgent, what’s optional, and what’s unknown. But none of that gets resolved until you pick up the phone or send the email and schedule the next expert in line. Do it now, while everything’s fresh. Get the evaluations. Ask for estimates. Make your decisions with full clarity. That’s the whole point of the inspection—to give you power before the deal closes, not after. FAQs: How to Follow Up After the Inspection Do I really need to call in a specialist for every flagged item? No. Minor or cosmetic items are usually safe to monitor or fix later. But anything marked as a defect, hazard, or “further evaluation recommended” should be reviewed by a licensed professional. Can my inspector tell me if something should be repaired or replaced? No. I can’t guarantee whether a component can be repaired or how long it will last. That call belongs to the specialist who services that system, based on their tools and testing. Should I get quotes before finalizing my purchase? Absolutely. The inspection gives you leverage—but only if you act before contingencies expire. Use the report to guide your due diligence: quotes, estimates, trade consults, and even renegotiations if needed. Will specialists look at the inspection report or want to see the problem in person? Both. Most pros like seeing the report to understand what was found, but they’ll still want to inspect in person before committing to pricing or timelines. That’s normal, and smart. → Next up: Post 9: Generalist vs. Specialist — Why Home Inspectors Recommend Further Evaluation ← Previously: Post 7: What a Home Inspection Is Not: Setting the Right Expectations Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): What a Home Inspection Is Not The reason I’m writing this post is because the word “inspector” carries a lot of weight—and a lot of confusion. People hear “home inspector” and assume I’m part code enforcer, part psychic, part contractor, and part life coach. So let’s set the record straight. A home inspection is a general, visual, non-invasive evaluation of the systems and components of a home. That’s it. I look at what’s there, test what I can safely operate, and report what I see. I don’t predict what’s going to fail next year. I don’t open walls. And I don’t verify whether every contractor who ever worked on the place followed all the rules. I’m an Evaluator—Not an Enforcer I don’t issue violations. I don’t check municipal records. I don’t report code infractions to the city. In fact, I’m not inspecting for code at all. Your 1965 house is allowed to have things a 2025 house isn’t—and I’m not going to ding it for that. If something looks dangerous or clearly wasn’t installed right, I’ll absolutely flag it. But I’m not calling the permit office, and I’m not pulling blueprints. That’s outside my role, and outside the scope of a home inspection. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: systems that are unsafe, malfunctioning, visibly damaged, or installed in a way that raises red flags. ❌ I’m not looking for: cosmetic issues, behind-the-wall conditions, or whether a room addition was permitted in 2008. I also don’t test underground tanks, solar systems, wells, septic systems, or anything that isn’t permanently installed and easily accessible. If something’s off or inaccessible, I’ll say so in the report—and recommend who to call for deeper evaluation. I’m a Generalist—And That’s On Purpose Just like your family doctor doesn’t do knee surgery during your annual checkup, I’m not doing a structural engineering analysis or disassembling your HVAC. I’m here to evaluate, test, and observe. If something feels off, I’ll recommend a specialist. That’s not a cop-out—it’s the smart way to keep you safe without guessing. In fact, the InterNACHI Standards of Practice make this crystal clear: we’re not required to determine the life expectancy of systems, verify compliance with codes, or estimate repair costs. Those things are outside the scope—and trying to do them puts everyone at risk. Limitations Aren’t Flaws—They’re the Framework This isn’t about cutting corners. It’s about staying in the lane that protects everyone: you, me, the seller, the agent, and the future owner. I’m trained and licensed to perform a **general** visual evaluation—not to perform a teardown or a forensic investigation. That’s what trades and specialists are for. And when I say “visual,” I mean it. If I can’t see it or safely access it, I can’t inspect it. That means no moving furniture, no crawling behind storage piles, no removing access panels, and no using special equipment like moisture meters unless I choose to. FAQs: What Your Inspector Isn’t Responsible For Do inspectors check for code compliance? No. Home inspections are not code compliance audits. Codes change constantly and vary by jurisdiction. I inspect for safety and function—not to see if your house passes city hall’s latest checklist. Can you tell me how long things will last? No. I can tell you the age and condition of systems, but not how long they’ll last. Life expectancy varies based on usage, maintenance, and luck. If something’s clearly failing, I’ll flag it—but I don’t predict the future. Do you check permits or contractor work history? No. I assume systems were installed by licensed professionals unless I see otherwise. I’m not verifying permits, licensing, or manufacturer installation techniques unless it affects safety or function. Can you move things or take things apart during the inspection? No. I don’t move personal belongings, open sealed panels, or dismantle systems. I inspect what’s visible and accessible. If something is blocked or inaccessible, I’ll note it in the report. → Next up: Post 8: Your Inspection Report Is Not the End: What to Do Next ← Previously: Post 6: Get the Most Out of Your Inspection Report Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Get the Most Out of Your Inspection Report The reason I always walk through the report with you at the end of the inspection is because I want you to actually *use* it. This isn’t a technical manual. It’s a working document—a tool to help you make smart decisions about your next move. Think of your home inspection like a visit to a general practitioner. I’m here to run a visual evaluation, check your vital signs, and flag anything that seems off. I’ll tell you when I think it’s time to call a plumber, roofer, electrician, or even a structural engineer. But I’m not the specialist. I’m the first step. This Isn’t the End—It’s the Beginning I know it can feel like once the inspection’s done, the work is over. But in reality, this is just where things get moving. You’ll want to review the report carefully and follow up on any flagged issues, especially the ones marked as safety hazards or “further evaluation recommended.” Need an HVAC tech to scope a unit? A roofer to look at flashing? An electrician to confirm panel capacity? That’s the next step. I’ve pointed the flashlight in the right direction. Now it’s time to hand it off to the right person. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: symptoms, visible damage, or evidence of failure—things I can observe and test within the scope of a general home inspection. ❌ I’m not looking for: permit violations, code compliance, trade-specific installation specs, or what your city might say if you start knocking down walls. That’s beyond my role—and yours, until you close. Also, I’m not opening walls, removing access panels, or operating shutoff valves. That’s for liability, yes—but also for respect. This house still belongs to someone else, and I treat it like I would want mine treated by a stranger with a flashlight and tablet. The Inspection Report Is a Compass—Not a Verdict I’m not here to tell you whether to buy the house. That’s your call. My job is to give you clarity about what you’re walking into. If the water heater’s old, I’ll tell you. If the roof is missing flashing, I’ll show you. But whether that’s a dealbreaker or a DIY project? That’s up to you and your comfort level. You might walk away from a house because the garage is cracked. Or you might buy it and fix it yourself with a $10 bag of concrete mix. Both are valid. My job is to give you the facts. Your job is to make the decision. FAQs: How to Actually Use Your Inspection Report Is the inspection report a pass/fail document? Nope. There’s no score. I don’t “pass” or “fail” a house. I report what I see, flag issues, and recommend action steps. The report is a guide—not a yes/no answer. What do I do after reading the report? Review it carefully, and follow up on any items marked as safety concerns, major defects, or “further evaluation needed.” Bring in licensed tradespeople where required. Think of it like triage—handle the serious stuff first, then the cosmetic. Are inspectors allowed to give repair estimates or do the work? No. InterNACHI standards prohibit inspectors from quoting repairs or doing the work themselves. It’s a conflict of interest. My role is to observe and report—not to fix or profit from the findings. Should I share this report with contractors or trades? Yes, absolutely. Most specialists appreciate it. It helps them know what we saw and what we flagged. Just remember—they’ll still want to do their own diagnostic work before giving quotes or starting repairs. → Next up: Post 6: How to Get The Most Out Of Your Inspection Report ← Previously: Post 4: Why Elevation Photos Matter in Your Home Inspection Report Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Why Elevation Photos Matter in Your Home Inspection Report The reason I always include elevation photos in your inspection report is because a picture of every side of the house is worth way more than a thousand words. It’s not just for show—it’s about documentation, defensibility, and holding the process accountable, both to you and ourselves. Every Angle Tells Its Own Story I take wide photos of the front, rear, left, and right elevations of the property. Why? Because drainage, siding wear, paint condition, roof lines, landscaping issues—they don’t all show up from the front porch. The sun hits each side of the house differently. Water drains toward different corners. You might have pristine siding on one side and peeling paint with moisture intrusion on the other. Without a full exterior sweep, you don’t get the whole picture—literally. It’s Not Just for You—It’s for Us, Too Elevation photos are part of how we maintain quality control, especially with newer inspectors. During training, I’ll often go back and review the elevation shots. Did they catch the sagging gutter on the north side? Did they notice the grading slope to the east? It helps me coach newer team members, tighten up consistency, and spot where someone might be moving too fast. It’s also how we build trust inside the team—every inspector documents what they saw, from every angle, every time. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: visible signs of wear, improper drainage slopes, water staining, exterior maintenance issues, unprotected wood, sagging trim, or siding movement. ❌ I’m not looking for: perfection, paint colors, or trying to match a “design standard.” I’m documenting condition, not critiquing curb appeal. I’m also not evaluating property lines or surveying the land. If a tree looks like it’s leaning over your neighbor’s fence, that might be worth calling a pro—but it’s not something I verify. I focus on what’s attached to the house, not the lot itself. Visual Evidence = Peace of Mind Let’s be real: things can go sideways after closing. Maybe a storm hits. Maybe the seller says “that hole wasn’t there before.” Elevation photos give us time-stamped, no-debate documentation of the exterior as it looked on inspection day. It protects you—and it protects us. We’ve had situations where a client reached out months later about a grading issue or siding bulge. One look at the elevation photo and we could say, “Yep, that was there,” or, “Nope, that’s new.” It’s not about blame—it’s about being able to verify what was visible when we were there. FAQs: What Elevation Photos Show (and Why They Matter) What exactly is an elevation photo? An elevation photo is a wide shot of one full side of the home—from ground to roofline—taken from a distance that allows us to capture overall condition, slope, and layout. We take photos of all four sides: front, back, left, and right. Why are these photos useful to the buyer? They show deferred maintenance (like peeling paint or wood rot), structural alignment (like leaning decks or bowed walls), and environmental risks (like poor drainage or soil slope). These things aren’t always obvious up close. Do you use these photos for internal quality control? Yes. Especially with new inspectors, we review their elevation photos as part of training and QA. It helps ensure they’re catching key issues and covering every angle of the house. Consistency matters. Can these photos help if there’s a dispute later? Absolutely. Elevation shots are timestamped proof of what the exterior looked like on inspection day. If someone claims damage occurred before or during closing, this is objective documentation that supports you. → Next up: Post 5: Get the Most Out of Your Inspection Report ← Previously: Post 3: Why I Start Every Inspection with a RecallChek Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): The Hidden Clues in a Home’s Year Built The reason I always start with the year a house was built is because it tells me what kind of trouble might be waiting. Every decade has its telltale signs—materials that were trendy, shortcuts that were common, and mistakes we didn’t know were mistakes until years later. It’s like a medical chart for the house. And no offense to your real estate listing, but “charming vintage home” usually means “go slow and look closely.” What I Expect Based on the Year Here’s a short version of what runs through my mind when I see the build date. If your home falls in one of these decades, this is where my radar starts: 1950s–1960s: Possible asbestos insulation, lead-based paint, and older-style fuse panels instead of breakers. Solid bones, but safety upgrades likely needed. 1965–1973: Aluminum wiring was commonly used in branch circuits—this stuff expands/contracts and loosens over time. I look closely at panels, connections, and visible wires. 1978 and earlier: Lead paint is highly likely. I’m not testing it, but I will point out where it probably exists (especially on windows, trim, and railings). 1983–1996: Polybutylene pipes—the gray ones—start showing up. They degrade internally, crack from the inside out, and often fail without warning. 2001–2009: Chinese drywall was imported in large quantities. It off-gasses sulfur that corrodes copper, wiring, and HVAC coils. If the home’s had weird appliance failures or smells like fireworks? My antenna goes up. 2000s–2010s: Vinyl windows that seal poorly, and cheap PEX plumbing connections that weren’t crimped correctly. Everything passes code, but that doesn’t mean it lasts. This Is Pattern Recognition, Not Guesswork Just like a doctor doesn’t run every test on every patient, I don’t check for everything in every house. But if I know you’re a 1971 ranch in Florida with a partially remodeled kitchen? I’m checking panel labels for aluminum. If you’re a 2006 two-story near the Gulf Coast? I’m glancing at the drywall for ghosting and corrosion signs. It’s not paranoia—it’s pattern recognition. It keeps me focused and efficient, and it helps me warn you about things that aren’t visible, but that matter. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: era-specific red flags, material types, appliance age, and renovations that either blend well—or scream DIY. ❌ I’m not looking for: cosmetic choices, wallpaper trends, or trying to bring your 1975 home up to 2025 code. I’m not evaluating taste—I’m evaluating function and safety. And no, I’m not ripping up carpet to find lead paint or cutting drywall to check for Chinese imports. I’m inspecting what I can access, and documenting what your house is trying to tell me—if you know how to listen. Why You Should Care (Even If You’re Replacing Everything) Some clients say, “We’re remodeling anyway—why does it matter?” And that’s fine. But the issues I flag based on age often go deeper than surface updates. You can replace countertops, but you can’t see what’s happening behind that polybutylene plumbing without a flood. Knowing the decade helps you prioritize what needs to be fixed—and what just needs to be watched. FAQs: Weird But Important Construction Trends by Decade Is aluminum wiring really dangerous? Yes, especially when used for branch circuits (outlets, lights). It expands and contracts more than copper, which loosens connections and creates overheating/fire risk. Not all aluminum is bad—some is safe for large appliances—but I check connections carefully. What’s Chinese drywall, and why is it a problem? Between 2001–2009, some drywall imported from China released sulfur gases that corrode metal—especially HVAC coils and copper wiring. It also creates a rotten egg smell. I can’t test for it, but I can flag visual or environmental signs and recommend lab testing. Is polybutylene piping always a dealbreaker? Not always—but it’s a risk. It was used in millions of homes, mostly between 1985–1996. Even if it looks okay now, it degrades from the inside. Most plumbers recommend full replacement rather than waiting for a failure. If a home is older, do you report it for not meeting modern code? No. Older homes are “grandfathered in” under the code they were built under. I only flag safety issues, damage, or function failures—not whether it meets today’s building standards. → Next up: Post 4: Why We Start Every Inspection with a RecallChek ← Previously: Post 2: How I Prepare for a Home Inspection the Right Way Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): Why I Start Every Inspection with a RecallChek The reason I start nearly every inspection by uploading model and serial numbers into RecallChek is because your appliances could literally be ticking time bombs. It’s not fearmongering—it’s just reality. There are thousands of active recalls on household systems, and most homeowners have no idea they’re living with a known hazard. What Is a RecallChek, and Why Do I Use It? Think of it like a VIN check for your appliances. I collect the model and serial numbers for major systems—furnace, A/C, dishwasher, oven, water heater, microwave—and run them through a national safety database. If there’s a recall, the report will show it. And just like your car, manufacturers are legally required to fix it for free. But here’s the best part: it doesn’t just tell you what’s wrong *right now*. You’ll also get monthly updates moving forward. If a recall is issued two years from now, you’ll be notified. If you replace your fridge next month? You can add the new unit to your report. It’s not just a snapshot—it’s a living safety tracker. Why This Comes First (Even Before the Roof) Starting with RecallChek gives me more than just safety data. It shows me where all the key systems are, what condition they’re in, and whether anything looks off from the jump. I’ll often spot a mismatched HVAC unit, an undersized water heater, or a duct-taped microwave install before I’ve even gotten to the attic. Plus, getting these data plates early means I’m not scrambling at the end or accidentally skipping something because it was hidden behind laundry baskets. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: clearly readable model and serial numbers on appliances and systems, correct installation dates, and whether they match the general condition of the property. ❌ I’m not looking for: cosmetic scratches, off-brand labels, or whether you “like” the appliances. Also, I don’t inspect portable or plug-in devices like countertop blenders or toasters. I also don’t verify whether the recalled parts have already been replaced. I’ll flag the issue—but it’s up to the homeowner or buyer to follow through with the manufacturer. My job is to provide the info, not chase warranty repairs. Why This Matters Long After I Leave Even if everything in your home is working perfectly right now, that doesn’t mean it’s safe. Some appliance recalls take years to surface. Others go unnoticed because manufacturers don’t always contact homeowners directly. When you get a RecallChek through us, you’re looped into an alert system that keeps working long after the inspection report is filed away. All of our inspectors start with RecallChek because it’s low-effort, high-value, and potentially life-saving. And if you don’t know the safety status of your own appliances… who does? FAQs: The Truth About Appliance Recalls How does RecallChek work during a home inspection? I take photos of the data plate (the tag with the model and serial number) for every built-in or major appliance—like the furnace, A/C, oven, microwave, dishwasher, and water heater. Those numbers are uploaded to RecallChek’s national database to check for manufacturer-issued recalls or defects. What happens if something I own is recalled? You’ll get a report showing any active recalls. Manufacturers are legally obligated to correct safety issues, typically at no cost to the homeowner. You can contact them with the report to schedule repairs or replacements. Is this just a one-time scan, or does it keep updating? It keeps updating. You’ll get monthly updates if a new recall is issued. If you replace appliances later, you can log into the portal and add them to your RecallChek list to keep the protection going. Do you test the appliances for functionality too? Yes, where it’s safe and allowed. I test appliances using normal operating controls. But if something’s shut down, disconnected, or unsafe to operate (like a gas oven with no visible shutoff), I won’t activate it. My job is to observe and report, not to damage or repair anything. → Next up: Post 4: Why Elevation Photos Matter in Your Home Inspection Report ← Previously: Post 2: How I Prepare for a Home Inspection the Right Way Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?

What We Look For (And What We Don’t): How I Prepare for a Home Inspection the Right Way The reason I spend time reviewing the home before I even show up is because houses come with baggage—just like people. And just like any smart doctor starts by checking your chart, I start by checking the year the house was built. That one detail tells me more than you’d think. Why the Year Built Changes Everything If your home was built in the late 1960s or early ’70s, I’m walking in already thinking about aluminum wiring. In the late ’80s and early ’90s? My radar’s up for polybutylene piping—a ticking time bomb in certain climates. The home’s age isn’t just trivia. It’s context. And it helps me make smarter decisions about where to spend my attention during the inspection. I also know that if the home was built before 1978, there’s a high likelihood of lead paint. If it was built after 2005, I’m expecting better fire-rated garage doors and GFCI placement. It’s not about guessing. It’s about understanding construction trends—and anticipating the problems that come with them. This Isn’t About Code—It’s About Patterns I’m not here to bring your home up to 2025 code. I’m not the code police. Just like a 1950 Corvette doesn’t need to install a backup camera, your 1950 house doesn’t need to be rebuilt because of every code change since then. I’m evaluating the home based on what it was built to be—then checking if it’s still functioning safely today. And that’s why preparation matters. If I know a 1984 house in this area likely has poly piping and low attic insulation, I’m already mentally checking behind the drywall before I even get there. I don’t need to see it to suspect it. I just need to know what I’m walking into. What I’m Looking For—And What I’m Not ✅ I’m looking for: clues about construction quality, material types, aging systems, and era-specific risks that could cause serious issues. ❌ I’m not looking for: cosmetic quirks, style preferences, or reasons to nitpick things that made sense 40 years ago. Your harvest gold bathroom fixtures are not a defect—they’re vintage. I don’t open walls. I don’t test for radon. I don’t scrape paint to find lead. But I will document red flags that suggest a deeper dive is needed—by a specialist. That’s the role of a general inspection: not to diagnose, but to spot symptoms and recommend when to escalate. Our Process Is Methodical—Because It Has to Be Every inspector on our team is trained to think this way. We don’t just “walk through and see what’s broken.” We prep, analyze, and execute based on a system. That’s how you find small things before they become big ones. We’re not just showing up and clicking a checklist. We’re reading your house before we even walk in the door. That’s what you’re paying for. That’s what preparation really looks like. FAQs: Why the Year Built Actually Matters Why do you care when the house was built? The year built helps predict what materials and construction standards were common at the time. That tells me where to look for problems. Older homes might have fuse boxes, non-GFCI outlets, or lead-based paint. Newer ones might cut corners in materials but pass code. Every decade has its red flags. What’s wrong with aluminum wiring? Aluminum branch wiring, common in homes from the mid-’60s to early ’70s, is prone to expansion and contraction, leading to loose connections, overheating, and potential fire hazards. I look for signs it was updated, repaired properly, or still in place. What is polybutylene pipe, and why is it bad? Polybutylene (PB) pipe was a cheap alternative to copper used in the ‘80s and early ‘90s. It degrades when exposed to oxidants in municipal water and often fails without warning. If I suspect PB, I’ll recommend a licensed plumber for further evaluation. Do you check every home for code compliance based on the year? No. A home doesn’t need to comply with modern code unless it’s being renovated or modified. I inspect based on what’s safe and functional, not what’s trendy or newly required. If something poses a risk—regardless of age—I’ll call it out. → Next up: Post 3: Why We Start Every Inspection with a RecallChek ← Previously: Post 1: The Inspection Starts Before I Even Arrive Curious what it’s like to schedule your own home inspection with us?